Montana- Microbrews and Mountains

Hungry Horse Reservoir Montana

Montana was always on the agenda for the trip, it was just a matter of when and for how long. Our route back from Alaska was going to drop us into Northern Montana where we could either head west again to Idaho and Washington or spend some time in Montana. We opted for the Montana route and started our travels around the Whitefish and Glacier Region. We were lucky enough to arrive the day before the Labor Day weekend and from other experiences around holiday weekends its best to find a camp site and ride out the crowds. So rather than try to fight the Glacier crowds we opted for the Hungry Horse Reservoir region which boasts numerous campgrounds as well as free dispersed camping along the forestry roads. 

Over the weekend we did some exploring of the surrounding area and stopped in the quiet town of Kalispell, MT to pick up some maps at the outdoor store and check out the Kalispell Brewery. This would end up being one of the many excellent breweries that dot the map in what seemed like every town we passed through. Their beers were excellent and the atmosphere was very laid back as compared to the more touristy town just to the North, only problem was they didn’t serve food. So taking the recommendations of the locals at the brewery we headed to iconic Moose’s Saloon for a mid afternoon snack. With the floors covered in sawdust and peanut shells and offering $2.50 tall PBR’s and $5.00 sandwiches this is one of those not to be missed bars that are a dying breed in this country. 

Once the dust settled from Labor Day we decided to venture into Glacier National Park and drive the famous Going to the Sun Road, or as we liked to call it going to the clouds road. We drove the road two times in with varying degrees cloudiness but never any sun. On our second trip it did clear enough to do a quick hike from Logan Pass to Hidden Lake. This is a rather busy trail but most people seem to stop at the overlook and not continue on to the lake some 700 feet lower- it is definitely worth the extra milage to get away from the crowds. Unfortunately dogs are not allowed on the trails and Koda got to have some private time in the drivers seat for a few hours. We ended up camping in the park for two nights - one night on the West side at Avalanche Campground and one night on the East side at St Mary campground. Glacier seems to have a good real-time campsite status map on their website which is helpful in determining what is available; the only trick is finding cell service to look it up. 

Going To the Sun Road Glacier National Park Montana

Going To the Sun Road Glacier National Park Montana

 Glacier National Park Montana

Glacier National Park Montana

Glacier National Park Montana

Glacier National Park Montana

We had picked several hikes and possible backpacks outside of Glacier in the Bob Marshall Wilderness Complex with the front runners being Ousel Peak and Holland Lookout. But with the weather not cooperating yet again we scrapped plans to climb Ousel and headed to the Holland Lake area which was to have slightly better weather. That morning we woke up to what appeared to be clearing skies, so with our objective still clouded in but with high hopes of better things to come we set off into the mist. Several hours later and about 4000 feet in elevation gain we stood staring at very socked in Holland Lookout. We had rolled the dice on the weather and lost big time. Wet and tired we retreated to our campsite only to find the rain had decided to move in for the evening, and a new precedent being set for the term morning showers. As luck would have it the next morning we awoke to blue skies and what would have been unclouded views from Holland Lookout.

Holland Lookout Flathead National Forest 'overlooking' the Bob Marshall Wilderness Montana

Rainy day at Holland Lookout Flathead National Forest Montana

Reeling from our defeat and with a truck of soaking wet gear we head to check out Missoula, Montana and stumbled onto one of the nicest campsites of the trip. We do not usually stay at RV parks let alone KOAs but wanting to dry out and rest for a few days we made an exception and checked into the Missoula KOA. We were skeptical at first when the GPS showed it behind what appeared to be a shopping plaza but we took a chance and had a look for ourselves. What we found was one of the nicest campgrounds we had stayed in so far. Missoula boasts a healthy population of microbreweries and historic saloons and it didn’t take too long until we found ourselves having a few beers at the Kettlehouse Brewery. The next day we stopped at another longstanding saloon called Charlie B’s for lunch. Oddly enough they specialize in cajun food and we can confirm that their Po Boy’s and Gumbo (no Okra?) are worth the trip.

Next up in Montana was the Bozeman and Livingston area, also know as the northern gateway to Yellowstone, but were weren't here for that. This area is close to several great hiking areas, Hyalite Canyon, Galatin Canyon, Crazy Mountains and the proximity to the Absoroka/Beartooths make this area a must visit for any outdoor addict. And following with our emerging trend in Montana we quickly found ourselves at the Katabatic Brewing Company in the town of Livingston, Montana. Another top notch brewery in a place where their seems to be a craft brewery or two in every town we stop, or maybe we just gravitate to those towns, who’s to say. 

On yet another day that was to have good weather we woke of to the first taste of winter, the mountains surrounding the Hyalite canyon were covered in a fresh dusting of snow. Not letting that deter us we headed in to check out the many water falls that line the canyon along the Hyalite Creek Trail. That night we stayed at one of the many campgrounds in the Hyalite Canyon that all offer excellent views of the surrounding peaks. No trip to Bozeman would be complete without paying a visit to the Montana Aleworks. We were first introduced to this beer lovers mecca many years ago on our one and only other visit to Montana and wanted to see if it was in fact as good as we remembered. Boasting what must have been over 40 different craft brews on tap with the bulk of them being form Montana it did not disappoint. It’s actually a really good place to try several different breweries without leaving the comfort of your bar stool. 

Hyalite Canyon Montana

Hyalite Canyon Montana

Heading eastward on I-90 out of Livingston, the Crazy Mountains begin to rise up like an island in plains. Our destination was the Halfmoon Campground on the eastern side of the range which was to serve as a base camp for some backpacking into the various alpine lakes in the region. Little did we know that the weather was not going to cooperate once again. No sooner did we set up camp that rain moved in, again what was to be showers ended up lasting most of the night. The next morning it was still rather cloudy and we could see a fresh coat of snow on the mountains. Rather than taking our chances and having to spend a potentially wet and unpleasant night in the mountains we opted for a day hike to the Blue and Granite Lakes-two nice alpine lakes situated below the summit of Crazy Mountain itself. By the time we made it to the lakes we had seen rain, sleet and snow and naturally when we got back to the car the sun was shining and the summits had cleared. Yet again our timing was impeccable and the weather forecasts grossly inaccurate. 

Big Timber Creek Crazy Mountains Montana

Blue Lake, Crazy Mountains Montana

For our remaining few days in Montana we decided to head to Red Lodge, Montana and check out the Absorka/Beartooth Mountain region and drive the spectacular Beartooth Pass Road. The weather yet again managed to interfere with our best laid plans. The day we planned on driving the pass we came to learn that it was in fact closed due to snow with no good intel on when it would reopen, so we set out on the much longer detour route into Wyoming. The next day when we got to the junction with the pass on the other side of the range they were just opening the road, bad timing yet again. 

Beartooth Plateau Wyoming after the storms cleared

Info:

Resources/Maps: Beartooth Publishing Maps for the Bozeman-Big Sky Area $11.95, Crazy Mountains $11.95 and Absoroka/Beartooths $11.95 ; Cairn Cartography Publishing for the Bob Marshall Wilderness Map Set $14.95

Entrance Fees: Glacier National Park $30 

Camping: Lots of excellent National Forest Campgrounds- Holland Lake was particularly nice with beautiful lake front sites 

Pets: Dogs not allowed on trails in the Glacier but are welcome in the National Forest around Hyalite Canyon, The Crazy Mountains, The Bob Marshall Wilderness and the Absoroka/Beartooths