Like No Place on Earth- The Tetons Call
Back in the early 2000s we were in the grips of a hardcore snowboarding habit; having never ridden out west we took a shot in the dark and decided that Jackson Hole would be our first foray into big mountain riding. That year for spring break we loaded up our Jeep and drove over nineteen hundred miles from Pennsylvania to Jackson, Wy. That week we rode what would turn out to be an epic week of snowfall in the Tetons. Over the following years we dabbled in other western mountains but somehow always found ourselves back in Jackson. Nowhere else held our attention like the rugged and dramatic landscape of Tetons. We hadn’t been back since 2008 and were long overdue for a visit so we headed to Jackson- that like the sign describes when you cross into Wyoming is truly “like no place on earth”.
We start our journey this time high in the mountains near the Togwatee Pass at the Falls Overlook Campground in the Shoshone National Forest just minutes from the continental divide. This region is home to the head waters of the Wind River, one of the last rivers we would encounter for quite sometime that flows toward the Atlantic. We geared up at the local outdoor stores and got some recommendations on which rivers were fishing. We had gotten a later start that morning and found ourselves in town at lunch time, so we decided to check out one of the local restaurants in Dubois, Wy. Dubois is a relatively small town and being situated nearly 100 miles from the more popular Yellowstone region manages to retain a non-touristy feel. After a quick check on Yelp for some restaurant reviews we settled on the Cowboy Cafe, a small diner right downtown that offered excellent sandwiches and was known for the wide selection of house made pies. The Cowboy Cafe did not disappoint and soon we are headed out of town, back to explore the lakes and streams around the campground. Brooks Lake lies in an alpine valley ringed by jagged peaks and also boasts a campground, however due to grizzly activity in the area camping is only open to those with hard sided campers. The outlet of Brooks Lake proved to be the ideal fishing location we were looking for, the water levels were low and feeding trout plentiful. Back at camp that night we had an outstanding $50 a plate trout dinner and it would turn out not to be our last in the area.
Heading toward Jackson we had some specific dispersed camping locations in mind. So with map in hand and a good hunch where we might find what we were looking for, we headed off down some forest service roads. It wasn’t long until we found ourselves looking at one the most spectacular views of the Tetons and a campsite to boot. It was however, right underneath a large power line. Not really into the power line site we continued on our way. Some more dirt roads and exploring and we scored what would turn out to be an amazing tent site overlooking Grand Teton. There are some beautiful dispersed sites in Bridger-Teton National Forest for those willing to do a little exploring.
Heading toward Jackson we had some specific dispersed camping locations in mind. So with map in hand and a good hunch where we might find what we were looking for, we headed off down some forest service roads. It wasn’t long until we found ourselves looking at one the most spectacular views of the Tetons and a campsite to boot. It was however, right underneath a large power line. Not really into the power line site we continued on our way. Some more dirt roads and exploring and we scored what would turn out to be an amazing tent site overlooking Grand Teton. There are some beautiful dispersed sites in Bridger-Teton National Forest for those willing to do a little exploring.
Having spent time in Jackson we knew the area well… or thought we did. Much had changed in Jackson from our last visit; gone is the rugged town full of ski bums and other outdoor junkies. Don’t get me wrong this is still an outdoor adventure town and those people still exist but now they exist in a town full of shopping, boutiques, bistros and thousands upon thousands of their closest friends. And we weren't here for any of that so we quickly re-supplied, well as quickly as you can when there is a mile long traffic back up through town, and spent most of our time in the surrounding National Forests.
Grand Teton National Park is located just outside town; however, no dogs are allowed on the trails so no hiking there for us. Based on the recommendation of the local mountaineering shopwe decided to hike Jackson Peak, located in the Bridger-Teton National Forest (saw lots of dogs!) This was an excellent choice as the trail passed a nice alpine lake through alpine meadows and finally reached the Jackson Peak summit at 10,741 feet. The rocky summit offered excellent views of the The Teton Range and the Gros Ventre Wilderness. Be aware that the Curtis Canyon Road to the trail head is pretty rough.
All in all, we had a great time in the area. While Jackson may not be the same rugged outdoor town we fell in love with years ago, the mountains and scenery are still as spectacular as ever and the outdoor adventure still exists for those willing to seek it out.
Info:
Entrance Fees: National Forests-Free; Grand Teton National Park- $30 for one week pass or $80 for a pass good at all national parks, forests and monuments for one year (a great deal!).
Camping: Awesome National Forest free dispersed camping (no services, first come first served) along many of the Forest Service Roads (spend some time exploring- you will find something great). Also several National Forest Campgrounds in the area- we stayed at both Curtis Canyon and Granite Creek Campgrounds ($15)
Pets: No dogs on trails in Grand Teton National Park. We did spend an afternoon driving through since we have an annual National Parks pass, but found there wasn’t much we could do. If given the choice again we would probably skip it. National Forest trails are dog friendly and we saw lots of dogs on our hike to Jackson Peak.
Maps: Jackson Hole Trail Map- Adventure Maps Inc. $12.99
Tips: National Forest dispersed camping sites seemed to fill up quickly; explore early to snag the best spots. Lots of services ( e.g. laundry, groceries) available in Jackson. Great tacos at the Stagecoach in Wilson.